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talk to the frog / Setup / Newbie
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asmodeus
Member
11 posts
11 posts

# Posted: 9 Feb 2004 10:27


Hi there.
I am a newbie who is thinking of setting up his first tree frog tank in about a month or two. I have seen a really nice 10g(UK) hexagon tank that is about 15 inches high. I was thinking of putting a green tree frog (hyla) in there with a few branches and plants, using a compost type substrate covered in moss and having a little pool of water for him to soak in. I was also thinking of how the little guy could be kept warm. What are the options here? I was thinking about either an electric heat pad under part of the tank or possibly a heat lamp. Is it at all possible to use an old aquarium heater placed in the middle of the substrate?

Please help. Any advise accepted. I really want to find out as much as I can before I buy one so I can make sure he has the best life possible.

x5dmr
Member
71 posts
71 posts

# Posted: 9 Feb 2004 16:37


fore heat, i wopuld go with a heat lamp, cheap and efficeint. your set up seems pretty good, get some of that bed a beast stuff (it is coconut fiber)make sure you have multi levels of things for the frog(s) to perch on.
this site we are on excellent info info, look under useful lists. and there are posts of some really good websites.

check out this site too
http://www.livingunderworld.org/

this book is good too : Care and Breding of Popular Tree Frogs, bye Philippe de Vosjoli, Robert Mailloux, and Drew Ready. check your local pet shop, they should have it.

oh yeah, welcome to the site. and good luck.

asmodeus
Member
11 posts
11 posts

# Posted: 9 Feb 2004 16:45


Thanks fo that.
I have actually been on Amazon earlier today and already bought that book Its good to know it comes highly recommended.

Pinkerton504
Member
501 posts
501 posts

# Posted: 9 Feb 2004 19:24


Welcome

Your setup sounds ok, but in my opinion, a 10 gallon is to small. I think a 20 tall should be minimum for an adult, but other people would say different. And def. go for the heat light, as a heat mat will not help much since the frog will usually be up higher in the tank. The light will need to be on 12 hrs. and off 12 hrs. at night. For night time heat, they have colored lights (red, purple) at the petstore that can be used. Also, make sure the plants you get are non-toxic to the frog, and have no pesticides. If the plant is being grown with pesticides, then i think you need to grow it without them for 6 weeks or so. Can someone else correct me? Im not positive on that.

And its great that your doing research before getting your frogs!

-Jackie

asmodeus
Member
11 posts
11 posts

# Posted: 9 Feb 2004 19:34


At the moment I am thinking about rearranging my room so that I can fit another tank in here (Already have a 24g(US) goldfish tank, an 18g(US) pufferfish tank and a 5g(US) african dwarf frog tank). I think I can fit another 18g(US) tank in here but it will be long rather than tall.

asmodeus
Member
11 posts
11 posts

# Posted: 11 Feb 2004 14:26


The re-arrangement is done and I can now fit the bigger tank in my room Due to having more space and a larger tank I would like to keep a White Tree Frog.
How many could I possibly keep in an 15 British Gallon (18 US) tank?

Whitney
Moderator
2241 posts
2241 posts

# Posted: 11 Feb 2004 19:00


20 gallons is the minimum for one...so with a 18 gallon, one max, and thats still too small. Cant you get a 20 gallon?


<-- Say, can I have some of your purple berries? <--
cheshireycat
Member
3789 posts
3789 posts

# Posted: 11 Feb 2004 19:28


I agree with Pinkerton on the GTF specs, and couldn't have said it better myself! The only change I'd make is keep the light on a little longer during the day, at least for the warmer months, but I'm sure it doesn't even matter.

Asmodeus, some of these "minimum requirements" are just that--and going even a tiny bit below can be a big deal just because giving the minimum amount is already not the best for your frog. 18-gallons is okay for one or two GTFs, but not for a White's... but there may be other frog species you can look into as well.


- Evolution is a theory, not just a fact. -
boozeR
Member
20 posts
20 posts

# Posted: 12 Feb 2004 19:38


no matter what don't use an aquarium heater for frogs or any other animal besides fish of course. the heater gets extremely hot if it is not completely submerged in water at the line indicated on the thing/ and as for the heat pads, if you so have to use one, try to put it on the side of the tank rather than the bottom. if you frog ends up burrowing at all, it might burn itself on the hot glasses.

asmodeus
Member
11 posts
11 posts

# Posted: 16 Feb 2004 09:01


Okie dokie... I have managed to free up some more space in my room and at the weekend I bought a 30x12x15 tank wich amounts to about 23 US gallons. I travelled all around town looking for organic compost and plants that were not on the toxic lists.
I then went to the local amphibian and reptile store where I was told by the guy there that he had no idea about what was what and couldnt sell me anything until 'Dave' got back at 3pm... So I waited after phoning at 3pm went over there.
The guy flat out refused to sell me the frog unless I purchased well over

cheshireycat
Member
3789 posts
3789 posts

# Posted: 17 Feb 2004 07:38


Don't use a heat mat/pad unless you really need it, use an appropriately watted bulb. Is watted a word? Hyla cinerea doesn't benefit from UVB, either, so you're completely right when you think the guy was just trying to sell you things. A flourescent bulb will help you grow plants and that's about it.

Now, Alex over here doesn't know and is too ignorant to learn the metric system, so I can just help you out in Farenheit. However, there are dandy sites on the web that can translate that for you, and Becki's got a dandy site with all the GTF info you need--I'm surprised we didn't link you to it before! Sorry! www.froggie.info and there are images at the bottom for added info on this or that.

If you need any more help or have any more questions you know where to ask.


- Evolution is a theory, not just a fact. -
asmodeus
Member
11 posts
11 posts

# Posted: 17 Feb 2004 09:24


Cheers for that. What kind of wattage do you think would be appropriate for a 30x12x15 (WxDxH) tank? I can see 60, 100 and 150.

cheshireycat
Member
3789 posts
3789 posts

# Posted: 17 Feb 2004 09:26


Depends on ambient temps. What temps are in your room now?


- Evolution is a theory, not just a fact. -
asmodeus
Member
11 posts
11 posts

# Posted: 17 Feb 2004 09:38 · Edited by: asmodeus


Well I live in the UK so the temp and go up and down pretty much over the year. Whilst we do have central heating we dont always have it turned on so some nights and mornings can get a bit cold. The temp outside today is 7C which is about 45F. I couldnt tell you what it is in my room at the moment because im at work.

bonsai
Member
1925 posts
1925 posts

# Posted: 18 Feb 2004 00:38 · Edited by: bonsai


This is what I would do.

a) You have the tank and it's location.

b) Buy a temp./humidy combo (digital) gauge (for the room near the tank) and a 2nd one for inside the tank (if not 2, 1 high up and one lower.

c) Decide on a screen cover, aquarium glass cover or whatever. Ideally a setup that has provisions for 1 fluorescent tube (for plants and general lighting, e.g. full spectrum, cool white, warm white, etc. No herp. tubes, e.g. UVA, UVB or UVC needed IMO), as well as for 2 tungsten sockets (1 for daylight/heat and 1 for moonlight and/or heat. Ideally with 3 cords for separate timers. ESU type hood)

d)Set up with moist paper towels, water dish and some furniture, fluorescent tube in place and a low watted (new word, courtesy of Cheshireycat...thanks moonlight bulb.

Monitor all conditions for about a week keeping humidy at correct level.
Then Do a best guess as to what wattage bulb is needed for tank. Get it and run for a day to measure temp.
If you need higher or lower, exchange or buy whichever applies.

e) As you are monitoring tank conditions and making adjustments, allow plants to acclimate in as near the tank as possible for at least a week or so in their original containers and soil.

f) By this time you have done more research and gotten feedback on the frog specie in question and you can purchase said frogs.

g) quarantine frog/s in separate tanks (unless your can be certain that all frogs are from the same breeder and have been kept together; even so, it is best to be able to monitor each frog in its own environ during quarantine/s). The moist paper towels and water dish is the easy way, IMO, to monitor the frog/s for a period of 3 months.

h) wash roots of plants and transfer to the coconut fiber/media mix that you have decided on. (This has been going on during the quarantine period, so that when it is time for the final setup, all players are ready.) Ideally the final tank has actually been setup and running for a period of time BEFORE the frog/s are introduced.
I'm sure I missed a few details but that is the approach I use. Cost reduce hood if you are a D.I.Y. kind of person or adjust as you need.
Good luck with your setup.
Others will have more info and their "special" techniques.


*snarky remarky at your service*...http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=snarky
Josh
Member
3432 posts3432 posts
# Posted: 19 Feb 2004 02:52


Haha, I belive the word you were looking for is wattage. And no there's is no proven benefits from UVB or UVA for amphibians, the guy was just trying to make the biggest sale he could thinking you had no idea what you were getting. Next time you go in after what you need, look like you know exactly what you want and don't listen to the guy trying to sell you everything.
Even the guy at my local pet shop thinks he knows stuff about the reptiles and amphibians, but he put a razorbaked musk turtle in with a baby sulcatta in a dry habitat. And frequently suggests baby iguanas and anoles as great beginner pets.
Now some peopel working pet shops do know their stuff, but most don't since they're onlay after employees to work not know stuff. And even if the employee knows more than the manager what the manager says goes and they don't listen to what their employees say.


0.1.0 Leopard Geckos
0.0.3 Razorback Musk Turtles
cheshireycat
Member
3789 posts
3789 posts

# Posted: 19 Feb 2004 07:00


It wouldn't fit as wattage (in my original sentence, although I guess I should have modified the sentence instead of the word), Josh, it would have to be wattaged... which is even more of a stretch than watted, lol.

Anyway, I think Bonsai's way of, basically, trying to make an educated guess towards wattage works just fine. It doesn't have to be perfect, keep that in mind, because you can move a bulb closer or farther from the tank. However, 45*F is really cold for indoor temps, so we're probably not talking about a 40 watt bulb, unfortunately for your electric bills.

What I like is those normal stand-up lights with three lamps attached... I just put a light bulb on each and turn on as many as I need (and can point lights at multiple tanks). I only really used "basking" lamps with regular bulbs for my fishtanks, oddly.


- Evolution is a theory, not just a fact. -
bonsai
Member
1925 posts
1925 posts

# Posted: 20 Feb 2004 04:05


cheshireycat,
When you say you use a normal stand-up lights, are you referring to a pole lighting fixture or just a three socketed light stand? Just not quite clear for me.


*snarky remarky at your service*...http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=snarky
cheshireycat
Member
3789 posts
3789 posts

# Posted: 20 Feb 2004 07:14


Bonsai, sorry, but I said that because I have no clue to describe it. It's just a pole that stands up on the ground, with a base, to about five and a half feet or so. Then there are three lamps attached that you turn on individually. I see lamps like these everywhere, but I don't know what they're called!


- Evolution is a theory, not just a fact. -
asmodeus
Member
11 posts
11 posts

# Posted: 24 Feb 2004 11:54 · Edited by: asmodeus


Thanks for the advise on that

I have just purchased the following items to heat and light my tank:
Exo Terra Day Glo Basking Spot 75w
Exo Terra Heat Glo IR Heat Lamp 75w
Exo Terra Night Glo Moonlight Lamp 75w

I was planning on using standard household bulb connections and fixing them to the roof of the tank but have just wondered if the IR lamp in particular will get too hot for the bulb sockets?

I am going to go to the local electronics shop and pick up a few dimmer switches so that I can manually control the heat and light levels for the time being. I will probably and eventually buy a thermostat dimmer but if I start buying everything all at once I'll have no pay cheque left

Anonymous


# Posted: 23 Mar 2005 15:33


Hi People,
I really need to talk to someone who knows their stuff about these frogs.
I'm doing some work on White's Tree Frog and they want me to mention Thermostats but I'm completely .
I've never done them before. If someone could help I would be more than greatful.
Thanks Rachel
Sh0e
Member
3185 posts
3185 posts

# Posted: 23 Mar 2005 17:02


anon, you might register and then start your own thread, you'll get more responses, for now check out this care sheet.

http://www.froggie.info/whites/index.htm


Shhhhhhoe
Don't blame the question when you're the stupid one.

(superscheu at yahoo dot com)
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