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talk to the frog / Feeding / Food for small reed frogs?
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Busch83
Member
27 posts
27 posts

# Posted: 22 Nov 2009 06:05


I'm trying to fatten up my reeds. Wondering what everyone feeds their smaller guys. I'm using small sized crickets right now and set up a breeding tank for sow bugs and crickets but god knows how long that will take to establish.
Also anyone know of any flying soft bodied insects (moths, lacewings, ect) that are a good food source and breed-able considering i know frogs love flying insects.

Tony C
Member
797 posts
797 posts

# Posted: 22 Nov 2009 06:08


I like waxmoths for smaller frogs, just buy some waxworms and forget about them for a couple of weeks, they will pupate and turn into moths.

cherisse
Member
1536 posts
1536 posts

# Posted: 22 Nov 2009 16:30


I feed my reed frogs:

fruit flies
wax worms
wax moths
roaches
meal worms
pinhead crickets

I also use a good dewormer when I either get them imported or they reach 2-3 months OOW.



Wax worms should not be given as a staple, but they are good for putting a bit of weight back onto slimmer animals. and they are crazy easy to culture.


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Busch83
Member
27 posts
27 posts

# Posted: 22 Nov 2009 18:35


yeah i was thinking of working with wax moths but am kind of concerned about having such a pest escape into my home since my enclosure is made of standard window screening mesh which if the moths lay eggs in the enclosure im sure the small worms would slip out.
How long did everyone's cricket colonies take to establish. Im holding mine at a bit over 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

I figure flying creatures would be better considering they tend to attract attention with the fluttering, have soft bodies, and are less inclined to hide their entire lives.

cherisse
Member
1536 posts
1536 posts

# Posted: 22 Nov 2009 19:40


If you culture them in their own containers, and release just the moths into the enclosure, you should have no problems with a takeover.

Most houses are too dry for them anyway. They would need to find a spot in your house that has consistently high humidity for them to take hold. The eggs, if the moths layed any in your enclosure, would almost certainly dry out before they could hatch.

The only problems that I have had with culturing them, is that the worms are able to chew through the plastic gladware containers that I culture them in.. so changing containers gets to be a pain.

I hate crickets, so my Reed's get roaches as their main staple. Less messy and smelly in my opinion, and they dont lay eggs or require a heat source in order to breed.


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Busch83
Member
27 posts
27 posts

# Posted: 22 Nov 2009 20:35


Yeah im not a fan of crickets myself but they seem to be a pretty good staple. I was considering sow bugs but i read that they should not be a staple due to the amount of keratin they contain.

cherisse
Member
1536 posts
1536 posts

# Posted: 22 Nov 2009 21:02


I used wood louse as janitorial crew for the majority of my tanks..

the only frogs that eat the baby wood louse are my Leucs.

They are a waste of time as far as culturing them for feeding tree frogs.


3.4.0 Mantella Milotympanum
Busch83
Member
27 posts
27 posts

# Posted: 23 Nov 2009 01:16


well thats depressing. O well.

Josh
Member
3432 posts3432 posts
# Posted: 23 Nov 2009 02:45


I use flightless fruit flies a lot.


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Busch83
Member
27 posts
27 posts

# Posted: 23 Nov 2009 23:56


Tried that before. the little buggers slip right through the screening

kerokero
Member
619 posts
619 posts

# Posted: 24 Nov 2009 00:36


Well if they are into 1/4in and smaller crix as well as FFs, I'd imagine they'd love termites as well. I feed them out in petri dishes (or other similar glazed shallow dishes like glazed clay pot saucers) so they do run into the substrate and I like to know where every little sucker is, but they are AWESOME for fattening up frogs that like small stuff. Also much less annoying that trying to get tiny little waxies out of their media...

Wax moths are not much of a house hold pest issue unless you happen to raise honey bees. The pest moth to watch out for is indian meal moths that were popular for a while before lesser wax moths got around. The meal moths are definate pantry pests! Lesser wax moths are smaller, and I've had varying amounts of success with them. Didn't have reeds and lessers at the same time so I can't speak for them. They are also moe of a treat as well, but very amusing to watch interested frogs chase

As for the FFs - which species were you using? Melanogaster may get out, but hydei shouldn't be able to get through window screening if that's what you are using. I prefer hydei for the larger frogs anyways, but crix/roaches are still better staples when they are larger than 1/2in. Too bad the crix/roaches tend to have much of their life as a size not handy unless you raise a wide variety of bug eaters.

Back to one of the original questions - what do you mean by an "established" cricket colony? I just get adults, and straight away have them on a schedule for egg laying, no real "establishment" of the colony. Or do you mean time from laying/hatching to reproducing adult phase?


Corey of the Little Brown Frogs
Busch83
Member
27 posts
27 posts

# Posted: 24 Nov 2009 16:51


Well ive had the adults in the laying colony for a bit now (say 3 weeks) and think that i have 2 males and 1 female that seem to be of mating maturity (darker coloration, longer wings, longer egg tube) with others slowly getting there. They were purchased from petsmart so i didn't think they would be mature insects in the first place.

My issue is knowing when the eggs hatch the young will be cannibalize Im unsure of when to remove the adults from the cage considering i haven't noticed crickets having sex or egg laying.
Also should i keep the female to attempt repeated matings?

kerokero
Member
619 posts
619 posts

# Posted: 2 Dec 2009 03:11 · Edited by: kerokero


Sorry for the long post - I'm detailing much of how I raise crickets so that you have the best understanding of how to do it yourself for happy froggies!

3 weeks seems like a long time, are you keeping these guys warm? The large size at Petsmart is typically 3/4', prewing, and occassional adult sized crickets, so you should really only take a week or two for them to be adults. I've always had to add supplimental heat to get these guys to grow well.

prewing on top, adult female below

You shouldn't have them set up where the adults and young will be around each other. The adults should have their own tank with bare needs, and egg laying containers should be rotated in and out of the tank. The egg laying containers are incubated (I use an incubator for large amounts, or just sit them on a reptile heat tape or warm light), and then the pinheads get their own container. The pinheads need warm, humid containers (keeping the egg laying container they are hatching out of in this tank gives them the humidity they need) with fresh veggies (NOT fruit) and will stick to anything wet (fruit, cricket watering gel, cricket waterers) and will not be able to eat hard foods (like typical cricket foods and pellets).

Cannabilism is really only an issue in containers were the older crickets are kept in over crowded conditions. Adding egg crating, cardboard, paper tubes and what not help keep this issue down, as well as having food available at all times including one source that has protien in it (like crushed dog/cat foods). Hungry crickets will also go after eggs to eat as well.

I've been breeding crickets a long time and don't think I've ever seen them having cricket sex, but that's likely because they do it at night when I'm not paying attention - so don't be worried that you don't see it. Egg laying you should be seeing if you have winged adults and fat girls with eggs. I limit availability of egg laying containers so I can see it happen so I can control density of pinheads (more females laying means I have to pull the containers sooner so the containers aren't overloaded). In a container of 500 adults, I give them 2 - 3cup gladware containers of moist vermiculite (vermiculite + water then squeeze out as much water as you can like a sponge - then it's perfect!) 3 times a week (MWF) for only the length of a workday (any longer and the containers get overloaded and higher chance of fungus during incubation).

Just keep all the males and females together until they start dying. Typically when I buy young adults (recently molted from prewing to winged adults) they are very productive for two weeks, then the third week they produce significantly less and you start seeing dye offs from age.


Corey of the Little Brown Frogs
firebellied man
Member
99 posts
99 posts

# Posted: 13 Dec 2009 20:10


I don't have no reed frogs, but I do have a spring peeper about half an inch. I feed him pin-head crickets, and SMALL meal worms.


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Busch83
Member
27 posts
27 posts

# Posted: 15 Dec 2009 02:40


well ive noticed that my smaller frogs willingly eat 1/4 in crickets without an issue but I would like to breed them just to have crickets around for other times. Kero thanks for the reply. I actually left the adults in till they died. Given the conditions id imagine they left eggs in the substrate but only time will tell. Once again the temp stays in the area of 78 f but thats the room temp of our home and drafts are possible so im kind of rolling the die on if i see pinheads or not but since my frogs are eating happily im not as concerned anymore (still thanks for the info). And sorry for the slow reply, senior level college courses were eating my time.

kerokero
Member
619 posts
619 posts

# Posted: 15 Dec 2009 02:55 · Edited by: kerokero


Ahhh the joys of finals time Sorta miss college except for that lol

I really need to get some pics of my bins and actually put this article on my site... oh wait! I need to have my site back up too... hah. Too lazy for that right now.


Corey of the Little Brown Frogs
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