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talk to the frog / Help / Please Help- sick whites tree frog
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Mackenzie
Member
9 posts
9 posts

# Posted: 10 Jan 2011 18:25 · Edited by: Moderator


So I've had my white's tree frog Finn for about 3 months now and he's been very healthy and eating well. I bought another one (Fiona) to keep him company about a month ago, and she wouldn't eat and developed these weird light green spots on her back half during her last couple days. Last week she died, and I was worried because I thought finn might've gotten what she had because today I came home and found him covered with the same light green dots on his lower half. I don't know what it could be! What can I do? He's having problems with his back legs and they seem rosy- could it be red leg? He's also a bit lethargic. Please help!

How do I post pictures of it?

Sandy_Bear
Member
1842 posts
1842 posts

# Posted: 10 Jan 2011 18:54


How to post a picture:
URL

The light green spots are usually a bacterial infection. You are going to want to get a hold of an exotics vet and ask about getting a prescription for Baytril. Bill usually recommends doing .3 of 1 cc to 1 gallon of water.

Could you elaborate on your set up for your Whites Tree Frogs?
Temperature/Humidity
Substrate used
Tank Size
What type of feeders do you use/how often do you feed/Is Finn still eating?
What type of dusting powders do you use
Your husbandry practices (tank cleaning)
Have you treated for Chytrid

Mackenzie
Member
9 posts
9 posts

# Posted: 10 Jan 2011 19:50 · Edited by: Moderator


Thank you I will research a exotics vet nearby. He is in a tall exoterra tank (about 10 gallons) at a temperature of about 68-75 degrees. I have all 3 sides of the tank covered with fake plants, a moldable climbing branch is in the center on which i just found some pale growth(simalar to finn's) on the bottom beneath the moss. The bottom substrate is gravel then a thick layer of moss. In the corner is his water bowl and next to that is a plastic hut. I feed him about a dozen crickets once a week and he ate well last week, but that was before my other frog died. I'm getting crickets tomorrow to see if he is still eating healthily. I have never used any dusting powders...? what type do you recommend? I change the water once a day, maintain humidity by usng a spray bottle twice a day to keep things moist. He is under a window so he is exposed to sunlight, but I also have a hood lamp that throws a little heat. I clean the whole tank about once a month, and I change the moss regularly. I have not treated for chytrid, but I will research it right now.







bschwinn
Member
2594 posts
2594 posts

# Posted: 10 Jan 2011 20:06


I suggest a bare tank, no moss, all water including bowl to have Baytril water. Couple branches, no misting, 30% humidity max. That is one sick frog. And yes it more than likely came from the other one, I like to isolate new animals at least 6 months, 12 months on turtles and torts.

Mackenzie
Member
9 posts
9 posts

# Posted: 10 Jan 2011 20:08 · Edited by: Moderator


Do you think the lamisil treatment for chytrid will help?

Ok thank you. I'm having a hard time finding an exotic vet nearby... hopefully can save finn.


Any suggestions other than baytril? I've had no luck finding any amphibian vets in my area.... please, any other options?

Sandy_Bear
Member
1842 posts
1842 posts

# Posted: 10 Jan 2011 21:07


Do you think the lamisil treatment for chytrid will help?
The Lamisil will not help the bacterial problem your frog currently has. Lamisil is used to get rid of the Chytrid fungus that is harming both wild caught and captive bred animals.
This is how to treat for Chytrid (after you get this bacterial problem sorted out):
URL

Ok thank you. I'm having a hard time finding an exotic vet nearby... hopefully can save finn
I'm not sure where you are located, but call every vet office in your area if you cannot seem to find one that treats just exotics. Explain to the concierge what the problem is, and what you are looking to get prescribed to fix the problem, and ask if they have a vet that would be interested in helping you out.

He is under a window so he is exposed to sunlight, but I also have a hood lamp that throws a little heat
I would remove the terrarium away from the window. It probably won't be such an issue in the winter time, but in the summer, if the sun is baking down on that area, you can cause a green house effect and cook your frog.

The bottom substrate is gravel then a thick layer of moss
You are going to want to remove the moss and gravel from his tank, like Bill said, bare bottom tank. At least until he is feeling better. Once he is healthy, the best option for WTF substrate is: Nothing, paper towels, or Coco-Fiber.
Substrates like, moss, gravel, and bark are dangerous to frogs because they can be come impacted if these things get accidentally ingested while they are hunting. The other reason I don't like moss is because the crickets (or other feeders) have lots of places to hide and then the frog goes hungry.

He is in a tall exoterra tank (about 10 gallons)
This tank is the 12"x12"x18" correct?
10 gallons is much too small to put 2 tree frogs in.
For tree frogs, you want to allow 10 gallons per frog, and to start with a 20 gallon tank. For example:
20 gallons = 1-2 frogs
30 gallons = 3 frogs
40 gallons = 4 frogs, etc
Now I'm not suggesting to go out right away and get another tank, the one you have will be fine for now, but keep that in mind for future reference, if you want to up grade his tank, or get anymore WTF to house with him in the future.

I have never used any dusting powders...? what type do you recommend?
RepCal brand is usually what is recommended:
URL
You should be able to find this at Petsmart and most other pet shops, and if they don't have it, then ask them if they can order it in for you. It is recommended to dust the prey items especially if you are sticking to just one type of feeder.

Mackenzie
Member
9 posts
9 posts

# Posted: 10 Jan 2011 21:38


Thank you. I called all local vets and mentioned the Baytril, but I found only one willing to look at him, and that's a long ways from where I live. I am currently cleaning everything in his cage and will change the set up as suggested by bschwinn. i will keep researching and looking for vets who will take my frog

Sandy_Bear
Member
1842 posts
1842 posts

# Posted: 10 Jan 2011 21:54


I wouldn't wait too long. IME frogs that are sick go down hill fast. If you want him to survive, make the appointment and make the drive there. If not, then go out and get some orajel and have him put down. But don't make him suffer.
How far is "far"? Can you email them the pictures and have them send the prescription to a vet that is closer?

Mackenzie
Member
9 posts
9 posts

# Posted: 10 Jan 2011 22:01


I've read that regular neosporin can help. Is it worth a shot? The trip to the vet will be about 2 hrs and the fees are too much for my wallet. I'm just not sure if it's worth it since he's in a close to terminal condition. Partial paralysis has already set in in his legs, and his toes are curling. I hate this, I don't know what to do, it's such a tough situation. Is there anything I can get at a pet store to help?

Mackenzie
Member
9 posts
9 posts

# Posted: 10 Jan 2011 22:03


I will try emailing them pictures to see if they can send it. I had to bring my parrot to the same vet years ago, so hopefully they'll be more sympathetic.

Mackenzie
Member
9 posts
9 posts

# Posted: 10 Jan 2011 22:29


Would aquarium antibacterial treatments work?

Sandy_Bear
Member
1842 posts
1842 posts

# Posted: 11 Jan 2011 00:25


I've read that regular neosporin can help
Neosporin without pain relief is used to help heal open (external) wounds on the frog. Your frogs has a internal bacterial problem.

Would aquarium antibacterial treatments work?
I've never used aquarium meds on my frogs before. I know that some of them are safe, and that other users have used them on their frogs. I do not know which ones are safe though, and I do not know the dosages on them.
What aquarium meds do you have on hand?

Is there anything I can get at a pet store to help?
I'd really suggest taking him to a vet over going to the pet shop and getting some meds. I live in Canada, and most of the "meds" we get here are "all-natural-hippy-type-junk" that doesn't work. I know in the US, there are some more favourable meds that may work better.
If you are looking for some thing from the pet shop, the only think I can suggest is a product by "Jungle" "Reptile Extra" they sell a Anti-Bacteria and Anti-Parasite line. They have Pellets for "Lizards and Torts" and for "Turtles and Aquatic Frogs". The one for Lizards and Torts also comes in a Powder form "Anti-Bacteria Meal". I've seen this for sale at Petsmart.
Now frogs like moving prey, so the way you are going to have to do this, is going to be a bit tricky.
When you go to the pet store to buy this, check to see if the active ingredients are the same. If they are, then buy the "meal" one, if they are different buy the one for the aquatic frogs (pellets).
Buy Large size crickets (or the largest size your frog is able to eat)
Now, if you have had to buy the pellets, you will have to grind them up, so they are a powder.
Next you are going to add some water to your Reptile Extra Antibacterial powdered/meal.
Take a clean syringe and suck up the Reptile Extra slurry.
Take a large cricket and inject the slurry into his rear.
Feed immediately to the Finn the Frog.
Please note, that I do not know if this will even work. Baytril (enrofloxacin) is not one of the active ingredients in these meds, So it's up to you if you want to try this out.

I'm just not sure if it's worth it since he's in a close to terminal condition.
If you decide that you want to put him down, get some Orajel and apply it to the "drink patch" on the frogs bottom. It will take a few minutes, but he'll go quietly. The "drink patch" is the most absorbent part of the whole frog. It'll be on his vent and extra bumpy looking

The trip to the vet will be about 2 hrs and the fees are too much for my wallet.
The average vet visit cost for a frog is about $150. Did they quote you a price?
In the future, it is a good idea to have at least $150-300 put away for emergency vet visits (for exotics like amphibians and reptiles), this is part of being a responsible pet parent. If this is too much for you to afford, then maybe you shouldn't have pets.

bschwinn
Member
2594 posts
2594 posts

# Posted: 11 Jan 2011 02:34


Pet store meds for fish such as Neomycin or even Tetracycline might help, but with your description I think it might be too late, I hope I am wrong, Bill

Michelle Houseman
Member
3539 posts
3539 posts

# Posted: 11 Jan 2011 06:41 · Edited by: Michelle Houseman


Bump that temp up to a steady 83f. At night while treating keep at a steady 81f. Baytril treatments and as soon as he seems stable start Chytrid treatment. This is what I have done in the past. Those green spots don't mean death all the time but it does mean you need to get aggressive with treating that infection. He can pull thru this possibly, just depends on treatment and strength of the frog to live.


Why kiss a frog to turn into a Prince, when you can kiss a Prince to turn into a frog! ?
Mackenzie
Member
9 posts
9 posts

# Posted: 11 Jan 2011 15:07


Thank you all so much for responding so quickly. I woke up this morning and found Finn had passed away overnight. It all happened so quickly, I can't get over it. Thank u all again for your help, I will deinitely follow ur advice if I decide to get another whites tree frog. RIP Finn, I will always love you.

Sandy_Bear
Member
1842 posts
1842 posts

# Posted: 11 Jan 2011 18:37


I'm sorry for your loss Mackenzie

Gracehoney
Member
459 posts
459 posts

# Posted: 11 Jan 2011 23:50


I am also sorry for your loss.

If you re-use any of your equipment or habitats, be sure that everything is thoroughly bleached.


Sue Ann

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