|# Posted: 2 Mar 2005 04:31
(no US common name)
Size: These are small toads. Adult size can range from 1.5 inches to 2.5 inches. Size seems to depend on care and environment.
Temps: No additional heating is required, these toads prefer cooler temps. Mine have been thriving at temps between 68 night time and 78 day time.
Lighting: UV lighting seems to bring out their colors a bit though no special lighting is needed. Their colors change from a dark minty green with bright red warts to a grey with brownish spots. It seems that the brighter colors come out more at certain times of the year (perhaps around breeding season)
Humidity: 50-70% (mist 2 or three times weekly with treated water only)
Food: as juveniles they will eat pinhead or very small crickets. Feed them daily as much as they will eat. Once they reach a size of aprox. 1.5 inches they are able to handle 5 larger crickets every other day with the occasional meal worm as a treat. I have been told that they will also eat dragon flies, house flies and moths but I have not tried them yet. Dust all foods offered with a calcium powder supplement every 3rd feeding.
Basic tank set-up: A good rule of thumb is 10 gallons for 1 toad and an additional 5 gallons per extra occupant. As with all amphibians, the larger the roaming space the better. Offering plenty of hiding spots is a must. These toads are active during both day and night but when they are not out they prefer a secluded place to tuck themselves away. Bedabeast (or cocoa fiber) is an idea substrate with optional moss for moisture and humidity. Provide a water dish deep enough for the toad to soak comfortably and fill it with some river rock (to prevent drowning) and treated water only. Adding a few potho clippings to the water dish allows the toad to hide and feel protected while it is soaking. Since these toads are climbers, adding a couple piles of river rock to the set up seems to keep them happy and mimics their natural environment nicely. It is also best to cover three sides of the terrarium to ensure that your toads do not become stressed from outside movements.
Breeding: not yet known. It is believed that the females are larger than the males. When breeding season approaches the male will have nuptial pads on the wrist area of his front legs. These will appear as dark grey or black rough patches. There call is also unknown to me.
Habits: These little toads can be quite shy and tend to duck for cover when approached. Again, they are active both night and day, are very hardy eaters and quite comical to watch when hunting their prey. These toads do not climb plants but will hide in them. Artificial plants may be used though live looks best. Pothos are a wonderful, hardy plant as well as some ground covering ivy. Both fair very well in the BAB or cocoa fiber substrate. You can add any plants that are not toxic to your enclosure for looks. Height is not needed since these are ground dwellers. Being that these guys are shy, handling (as with any amphibian) is not recommended. The will not hesitate to urinate on you the moment they are picked up. If you do have to handle them, be sure to wash your hands(avoid anti-bacterial soaps as it can irritate their skin and make them ill) before and after. All toads are toxic, there for avoid touching your face, eyes, mouth or any sensitive skin before washing your hands.
There is very little information on thee little guys on the internet so all of the above information is based on my personal experience. I have been told that few have been able to keep them past 3 or 4 months and that they have had difficulty getting them to grow. I have had my two just barely over 4 months now and they have doubled in size and appear to be quite happy and thriving. I hope to have more information on them as my experience with them continues. Perhaps one day I will even have breeding info to offer.
Enjoy your B.Varigatus! They are by far my favorite toads and I am sure that you will agree!
* Heather *
1.1.0 Dendrobate Azureus