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talk to the frog / Care Sheets / Whites Tree Frogs (Litoria carulea)
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# Posted: 3 Aug 2003 13:39 · Edited by: blink


Green tree frogs (litoria carulea) are the most commonly sold frog in AUS. even though these frogs are one of the hardiest and easiest frogs to keep in captivity, they still need a lot of attention and care. WTF's live in Nth NSW up past QLD, to darwin and as west as west as SA. below is the recommended requirements and care for keeping happy and healthy green tree frogs.

TEMPS: GTF's can handle quite cold conditions (10-15c) but the recommended temps for them during the day are around 22-28c, and at night they can drop to 18-22c. a good heat source can be an incandescent light, aqurium element water heaters(good when breeding GTF's), or a ceramic heater which are good for day/night heat. by buying a thermometer for your aqarium, you will be able to measure the enclosure temp acurately.

HUMIDITY: GTF's require the humidity to be fairly low (around 40-60%). to raise the humidity you can spray your aqurium with water more reguly, or get a larger water section and more live plants . to decrease the humidty you can, increase the ventilation, decrease the amount of water you spray in there, or decrease the size of the water section and/or plants. to tell the amount of humity in the air, you can buy a hydrometer/humidity gauge at your local pet store.

ENCLOSURE: the minimum size enclosure for 1 GTF should be 20 gallon, and each GTF you add, also add 10 gallons to the enclosure eg. 1gtf=20gallons, 2gtf's=30gallons, 4gtf's=40gallons etc. make sure your frog has a suitable water source to hydrate his body when needed, this can be a small water bowl, or a large water section in your enclosure. make sure that the frog can sit in the water so he/she is not completly submerged, and that they can get out of the water easily. make sure that when you get the water from a tap, mix it whith water conditioner, to get rid of all the chlorene and heavy metals. aquriums are the best type of enclosures to keep GTF's, because they are easy to clean, provide good ventilation and are water resistent. when furnishing ur enclosure make sure that there are many hide spots for your frog to hide during the day. cork bark can be glued at the back of the aquirium by silicone to provide great hide spots. fake or live plats can be used also as hide spots aswell. make sure there are many pieces of wood, which can be used as a perch by your frogs. because GTF's are semi-aboreal species, they will require a tall and deep/long aqurium, so they get enough ground and aboreal space.

LIGHTING: it has been a long going debate whether frogs need UV to synthesis Vitamin D3 and help calcium and multivitamin intake. i think that uv-B and uv-A rays do bring out the natural colors in frogs, but i do not think that they need UV to help calcium intake and to sythesis Vitamin D3, but i still have it on all of my set-ups, because it is great for plants. u will need to provide some kind of lighting to mimic the natural photoperiod in the wild. a normal incandescent bulb will increase the heat and light within your aqurium. you should keep your light on for 12 hours on and 12hours of. you can do this automatically by using a timer.

BREEDING: you should only breed your frogs when they are at least 2 years, full size, and quite plump. 3 males to 2 females is a good male/female ratio for breeding. remember, when breeding you should have more males then females.
for around 8 weeks cut back on the amount of food, and temp(18-20c), and change the photoperiod for 10hours on, and 14 hours of, keep the humidty quite low(30-40%) . after the 8 week period, feed them alot, increase the temp (26c) and increase the photoperiod for, 14hours on and 10 hours of. spray their enclosure every night, and bring the humidity to 60-70%.

FEEDING: young newly metoporphed froglets if fed regurly(every day) will grow to full size(7-10cm) in 1 year. once your frogs reach a total SV(snout to vent) of 7-10 cm, you should only feed them 2-4crix every other day. a good indication of an overweight frog is the fat glands above the tympanum, if they sag over the tympanum, then cut back on feeding.

(from Luke)


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